Carleton Watkins visited the Sierra Madre Villa Hotel twice — in 1877 and again in 1880. The photo above is from 1880.
From the photograph’s title, we assume Watkins is taking the photo from the hotel building itself. The hotel was on mesa land above present-day Eaton Canyon Golf Course. Current cross streets would be Sierra Madre Villa Ave. and Fairpoint St. Elevation at that point is about 1150 feet above sea level.
Watkins’ camera is pointing generally south-east. Orange trees are in the foreground arranged in rows heading downhill. It looks like another grove or possibly vineyard extends beyond that and empties out into the broad floor of the San Gabriel Valley. The Puente Hills, which form the southern end of the valley, rise toward the top of the photo.
That light-colored swath of land toward the middle of the photo is likely a rocky sandy flood plain. The area looks like it has little or no vegetation and is probably sand and rocks that have flowed to the spot via the San Gabriel River and various washes, including the Eaton Wash. These rivers and washes are part of the natural terrain of the area and were wide open in 1880.
William Lauren Rhoades
A group of men and children are posed in the foreground. Three men in suits are there examining the trees. That’s hotel proprietor William Porter Rhoades at the far end. The taller of the two children is his son, William Lauren Rhoades, who has appeared often on these pages. We’ve posted before about Watkins’ photo of young William Lauren with his donkey.
As it turns out, the eminent photographer Watkins and the young Rhoades, in very different ways, captured and preserved for us a good bit of local history.
Watkins, of course, produced his photographs, like the one above, giving us images of landscapes that would soon vanish. Because Watkins was active during the last half of the 1800’s, his photos predate massive changes brought on by the industrial revolution. Watkins’ photos, one scholar says, often capture landscapes in their “final moments” of pristine beauty.
Rhoades, on the other hand, experienced first hand the fast-changing San Gabriel Valley. As a child he saw the glory of the groves and views. We are fortunate that, as an adult Rhoades was active in preserving his experience as a longstanding member of the Sierra Madre Historical Society. He never forgot the wonder of the magnificent views from the old hotel.
When he wrote his History of the Famous Sierra Madre Vila Hotel, Rhoades’ memory of the views were vivid:
Then there was the view of the San Gabirel Valley, not surpassed by any other views of the famous valley with its orange groves, great vineyards and pastures with large herds of cattle and bands of thousands of head of sheep, and in the distance loomed up the majestic Sierra Madre Mountains and Old Baldy with its snow cap and fifty miles away lay the broad Pacific Ocean and Catalina Island plainly seen by the naked eye.
As Rhoades wrote in his history, people across the country were drawn to the Villa. The incredible view, mild climate, urbane hosts, and surrounding orange groves and vineyards all made the Villa a one-of-a-kind experience.
146 Years Later
Not sure anyone could have appreciated the moment. But, that day in 1880, when Watkins took his photo of the view from the Sierra Madre Villa, monumental change was coming. With the railroad (1887) and masses of people moving West, the San Gabriel Valley was destined for growth. For the groves and vineyards, it was just a matter of time.
So, ranch by ranch and grove by grove, vineyard by vineyard, the San Gabriel Valley was subdivided again and again. Streets were paved, washes put in concrete channels, buildings built and 31 cities incorporated. By one account population in the San Gabriel Valley grew to 2 Million people. By another account, valley population peaked in 2016 and has been declining ever since.
But, that’s progress — About two million people, 31 cities, $140 Billion in business revenue, leading universities, renowned cultural institutions, a hundred Starbucks and the headquarters of Trader Joes. The San Gabriel Valley has certainly come a long way from the 1880 Watkins photo.
Watkins’ 1880 view from the Villa is photo from another time and place. Aside from the outline of the Puente Hills in the background, not much in the 1880 photo is recognizable today. The groves and vines are long gone. The wandering river and washes are either underground or confined to narrow channels.
Though I can’t recognize the place, I am drawn to it. The thought of a promontory overlooking endless groves and vines is enticing. The promise of clear days and views to the ocean and Catalina — that’s something I’d like to see.
And there is just something about fruit trees. You can almost imagine being the middle of the grove surrounded by sweet juicy oranges and all you need to do reach up and pick the one you want.
The groves and vines are long gone. But, oranges, lemons and about everything else still grows well here. As I’ve written on this blog, you can’t beat the scent of orange blossoms in May and fresh orange juice in February.
I started this post with one idea focused on Watkins’ view from the Villa and contrasting that with a 2026 view from a similar spot. Well, I kind of did that. But the contrast in the two photos was less interesting than I’d hoped.
The San Gabriel Valley in 1880 and 2026 are just two entirely different places. The former was fully rural and the later fully urban. Aside from the Puente Hills, which are visible in both photos, I did not see alot to talk about. By the way, La Puente and the Puente Hills are named for a bridge (“puente” means bridge in Spanish) built by the Franciscan Fathers over the San Gabriel River.
So, I’ve meandered around in this post and got waylaid on Carleton Watkins’ life and work. Fascinating stuff, really. Seems likely to me that Watkins and the Villa’s owner, artist William F. Cogswell knew each other and that may have led to Watkins’ multiple visits to the Villa. And they both have very interesting links to President Lincoln. So, I may post on that later on — assuming I post again.
Recalling that the whole point of this post was about VIEWS, I leave you with a view I’ve posted a lot about. That’s the view north to the San Gabriel Mountains (formerly called the Sierra Madres).
The mountains, of course, are our dominant scenic asset. The mountains are not going anywhere. They were there in 1880 when Watkins took the photo above. And, provided you can find a patch of open ground or look north while driving the 210, the mountains are still there to see.
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